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Ran English HTML docs through HTML Tidy

Browse source 
See "RELEASE.txt" for the invocation.  Mended a few things prior
to final run of `tidy`, based on HTML Tidy's output.

Updated any affected TXT files via Makefile.
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Bill Kendrick 2020-07-27 23:01:06 -07:00
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@ -36,6 +36,10 @@ $Id$
(Ref: https://github.com/haikuports/haikuports/issues/3045) (Ref: https://github.com/haikuports/haikuports/issues/3045)
Gerasim Troeglazov <3dEyes@gmail.com> Gerasim Troeglazov <3dEyes@gmail.com>
* Documentation updates
---------------------
* Cleaned up HTML code of HTML-based documentation.
* Bug Fixes * Bug Fixes
--------- ---------
* Mended issue where stamp descriptions were not loading * Mended issue where stamp descriptions were not loading

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@ -5,7 +5,7 @@
Copyright (c) 2002-2020 by various contributors; see AUTHORS.txt Copyright (c) 2002-2020 by various contributors; see AUTHORS.txt
http://www.tuxpaint.org/ http://www.tuxpaint.org/
June 14, 2002 - June 22, 2020 June 14, 2002 - July 27, 2020
---------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

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@ -42,30 +42,30 @@ Drawing-related
it with "--stamps" on the command line or "nostamps=no" or it with "--stamps" on the command line or "nostamps=no" or
"stamps=yes" in a configuration file. "stamps=yes" in a configuration file.
* The Magic "Fill" Tool Looks Bad * The Magic "Fill" Tool Looks Bad
Tux Paint is probably comparing exact pixel colors when filling. Tux Paint is probably comparing exact pixel colors when filling. This
This is faster, but looks worse. Run the command is faster, but looks worse. Run the command "tuxpaint --version" from
"tuxpaint --version" from a command line, and you should see, a command line, and you should see, amongst the other output: "Low
amongst the other output: "Low Quality Flood Fill enabled". Quality Flood Fill enabled".
To change this, you must rebuild Tux Paint from source. Be sure To change this, you must rebuild Tux Paint from source. Be sure to
to remove or comment out any line that says: remove or comment out any line that says:
#define LOW_QUALITY_FLOOD_FILL #define LOW_QUALITY_FLOOD_FILL
in the "tuxpaint.c" file in the "src" directory. in the "tuxpaint.c" file in the "src" directory.
* Stamp outlines are always rectangles * Stamp outlines are always rectangles
Tux Paint was built with low-quality (but faster) stamp outlines. Tux Paint was built with low-quality (but faster) stamp outlines.
Rebuild Tux Paint from source. Be sure to remove or comment out Rebuild Tux Paint from source. Be sure to remove or comment out any
any line that says: line that says:
#define LOW_QUALITY_STAMP_OUTLINE #define LOW_QUALITY_STAMP_OUTLINE
in the "tuxpaint.c" file in the "src" directory. in the "tuxpaint.c" file in the "src" directory.
Interface Problems Interface Problems

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@ -147,8 +147,8 @@ Main Screen
The toolbar contains the drawing and editing controls. The toolbar contains the drawing and editing controls.
[Tools: Paint, Stamp, Lines, Shapes, Text, Magic, Label, Undo, Redo, [Tools: Paint, Stamp, Lines, Shapes, Text, Magic, Label, Undo, Redo, Eraser,
Eraser, New, Open, Save, Print, Quit] New, Open, Save, Print, Quit]
Middle: Drawing Canvas Middle: Drawing Canvas
@ -176,8 +176,8 @@ Main Screen
A palette of available colors are shown near the bottom of the A palette of available colors are shown near the bottom of the
screen. screen.
[Colors - Black, White, Red, Pink, Orange, Yellow, Green, Cyan, Blue, [Colors - Black, White, Red, Pink, Orange, Yellow, Green, Cyan, Blue, Purple,
Purple, Brown, Grey] Brown, Grey]
On the far right are two special color options, the On the far right are two special color options, the
"color picker", which has an outline of an eye-dropper, and "color picker", which has an outline of an eye-dropper, and
@ -193,9 +193,8 @@ Main Screen
At the very bottom of the screen, Tux, the Linux Penguin, At the very bottom of the screen, Tux, the Linux Penguin,
provides tips and other information while you draw. provides tips and other information while you draw.
(For example: 'Pick a shape. Click to pick the center, drag, then let go (For example: 'Pick a shape. Click to pick the center, drag, then let go when it
when it is the size you want. Move around to rotate it, and click to draw is the size you want. Move around to rotate it, and click to draw it.)
it.)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

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@ -1,330 +1,501 @@
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html><head><title>Tux Paint Advanced Stamps HOWTO</title> <html>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <head>
</head> <meta name="generator"
content="HTML Tidy for HTML5 for Linux version 5.6.0">
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000" link="#0000FF" vlink="#FF0000" <title>
alink="#FF00FF"> Tux Paint Advanced Stamps HOWTO
</title>
<center> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type"
<h1><img src="../../html/images/tuxpaint-title.png" width=205 height=210 content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
alt="Tux&nbsp;Paint"><br> </head>
version <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF"
text="#000000"
0.9.25 link="#0000FF"
vlink="#FF0000"
<br> alink="#FF00FF">
Advanced Stamps HOWTO</h1> <center>
<h1>
<p>Copyright 2006-2008 by Albert Cahalan for the Tux Paint project<br> <img src="../../html/images/tuxpaint-title.png"
New Breed Software</p> width="205"
<p><a href="mailto:albert@users.sf.net">albert@users.sf.net</a><br> height="210"
<a href="http://www.tuxpaint.org/">http://www.tuxpaint.org/</a></p> alt="Tux&nbsp;Paint"><br>
version 0.9.25<br>
</center> Advanced Stamps HOWTO
</h1>
<h2>About this HOWTO</h2> <p>
<blockquote> Copyright 2006-2008 by Albert Cahalan for the Tux Paint
project<br>
<p>This HOWTO assumes that you want to make an excellent Tux&nbsp;Paint New Breed Software
stamp, in PNG bitmapped format, from a JPEG image (e.g., a digital </p>
photograph). There are easier and faster methods that
produce lower quality.</p> <p>
<a href=
<p>This HOWTO assumes you are dealing with normal opaque objects. Dealing "mailto:albert@users.sf.net">albert@users.sf.net</a><br>
with semi-transparent objects (fire, moving fan blade, kid's baloon) <a href=
or light-giving objects (fire, lightbulb, sun) is best done with custom "http://www.tuxpaint.org/">http://www.tuxpaint.org/</a>
software. Images with perfect solid-color backgrounds are also best done </p>
with custom software, but are not troublesome to do as follows.</p> </center>
</blockquote> <h2>
About this HOWTO
<h2>Image choice is crucial</h2> </h2>
<blockquote>
<blockquote>
<h3>License</h3> <p>
<blockquote> This HOWTO assumes that you want to make an excellent
Tux&nbsp;Paint stamp, in PNG bitmapped format, from a JPEG
<p>If you wish to submit artwork to the Tux&nbsp;Paint developers for image (e.g., a digital photograph). There are easier and
consideration for inclusion in the official project, or if you wish to faster methods that produce lower quality.
release your own copy of Tux&nbsp;Paint, bundled with your own graphics, </p>
you need an image that is compatible with the GNU
<a href="../COPYING.txt">General Public License</a> used by <p>
Tux&nbsp;Paint.</p> This HOWTO assumes you are dealing with normal opaque
objects. Dealing with semi-transparent objects (fire,
<p>Images produced by the US government are Public Domain, but be aware moving fan blade, kid's baloon) or light-giving objects
that the US government sometimes uses other images on the web. (fire, lightbulb, sun) is best done with custom software.
<a href="http://images.google.com/">Google image</a> queries including Images with perfect solid-color backgrounds are also best
either <code>site:gov</code> or <code>site:mil</code> will supply many done with custom software, but are not troublesome to do as
suitable images. (Note: the *.mil sites include non-military content, follows.
too!)</p> </p>
</blockquote>
Your own images can be placed in the Public&nbsp;Domain by declaring it
so. (Hire a lawyer if you feel the need for legal advice.)</p> <h2>
Image choice is crucial
<p>For personal use, any image you can legitimately modify and use </h2>
for your own personal use should be fine.</p>
<blockquote>
</blockquote> <h3>
License
<h3>Image Size and Orientation:</h3> </h3>
<blockquote>
<blockquote>
<p>You need an image that has a useful orientation. Perspective is <p>
an enemy. Images that show an object from the corner are difficult to If you wish to submit artwork to the Tux&nbsp;Paint
fit into a nice drawing. As a general rule, telephoto side views are developers for consideration for inclusion in the
the best. The impossible ideal is that, for example, two wheels of a official project, or if you wish to release your own copy
car are perfectly hidden behind the other two.</p> of Tux&nbsp;Paint, bundled with your own graphics, you
need an image that is compatible with the GNU <a href=
<p>Rotating an image can make it blurry, especially if you only rotate by "../COPYING.txt">General Public License</a> used by
a few degrees. Images that don't need rotation are best, images that need Tux&nbsp;Paint.
lots of rotation (30 to 60 degrees) are next best, and images that need </p>
just a few degrees are worst. Rotation will also make an image darker
because most image editing software is very bad about gamma handling. <p>
(Rotation is only legitimate for gamma=1.0 images.)</p> Images produced by the US government are Public Domain,
but be aware that the US government sometimes uses other
<p>Very large images are more forgiving of mistakes, and thus easier to images on the web. <a href=
work with. Choose an image with an object that is over 1000 pixels "http://images.google.com/">Google image</a> queries
across if you can. You can shrink this later to hide your mistakes.</p> including either <code>site:gov</code> or
<code>site:mil</code> will supply many suitable images.
<p>Be sure that the image is not too grainy, dim, or washed out.</p> (Note: the *.mil sites include non-military content,
too!)
<p>Pay attention to feet and wheels. If they are buried in something, </p>
you will need to draw new ones. If only one is buried, you might be
able to copy the other one as a replacement.</p> <p>
Your own images can be placed in the Public&nbsp;Domain
</blockquote> by declaring it so. (Hire a lawyer if you feel the need
</blockquote> for legal advice.)
</p>
<h2>Prepare the image:</h2>
<blockquote> <p>
For personal use, any image you can legitimately modify
<p>First of all, be sure to avoid re-saving the image as a JPEG. This causes and use for your own personal use should be fine.
quality loss. There is a special tool called </p>
<a href="http://gnuwin32.sourceforge.net/packages/jpeg.htm">jpegtran</a> </blockquote>
that lets you crop an image without the normal quality loss. If you want a
GUI for it, use <h3>
<a href="http://astron.berkeley.edu/~mperrin/software/ljcrop/">ljcrop</a>. Image Size and Orientation:
Otherwise, use it like this:</p> </h3>
<blockquote> <blockquote>
<p><code>jpegtran -trim -copy none -crop 512x1728+160+128 &lt; src.jpg <p>
&gt; cropped.jpg</code></p> You need an image that has a useful orientation.
</blockquote> Perspective is an enemy. Images that show an object from
the corner are difficult to fit into a nice drawing. As a
<p>Bring that image up in your image editor. If you didn't crop it yet, general rule, telephoto side views are the best. The
you may find that your image editor is very slow. Rotate and crop the impossible ideal is that, for example, two wheels of a
image as needed. Save the image &mdash; choose whatever native format car are perfectly hidden behind the other two.
supports layers, masks, alpha, etc. <a href="http://www.gimp.org/">GIMP</a> </p>
users should choose "XCF", and Adobe Photoshop users should choose "PSD",
for example.</p> <p>
Rotating an image can make it blurry, especially if you
<p>If you have rotated or cropped the image in your image editor, flatten only rotate by a few degrees. Images that don't need
it now. You need to have just one RGB layer <i>without mask or rotation are best, images that need lots of rotation (30
alpha</i>.</p> to 60 degrees) are next best, and images that need just a
few degrees are worst. Rotation will also make an image
<p>Open the layers dialog box. Replicate the one layer several times. darker because most image editing software is very bad
From top to bottom you will need something like this:</p> about gamma handling. (Rotation is only legitimate for
gamma=1.0 images.)
<ol> </p>
<li>unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)</li>
<li>an image you will modify &mdash; the "WIP" layer</li> <p>
<li>solid green (write-protect this if you can)</li> Very large images are more forgiving of mistakes, and
<li>solid magenta (write-protect this if you can)</li> thus easier to work with. Choose an image with an object
<li>unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)</li> that is over 1000 pixels across if you can. You can
</ol> shrink this later to hide your mistakes.
</p>
<p>Give the WIP layer a rough initial mask. You might start with a
selection, or by using the grayscale value of the WIP layer. You might <p>
invert the mask.</p> Be sure that the image is not too grainy, dim, or washed
out.
<p><b>Warning:</b> once you have the mask, you may not rotate or </p>
scale the image normally. This would cause data loss. You will be
given special scaling instructions later.</p> <p>
Pay attention to feet and wheels. If they are buried in
</blockquote> something, you will need to draw new ones. If only one is
buried, you might be able to copy the other one as a
<h2>Prepare the mask:</h2> replacement.
<blockquote> </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Get used to doing Ctrl-click and Alt-click on the thumbnail images in the </blockquote>
layers dialog. You will need this to control what you are looking at and
what you are editing. Sometimes you will be editing things you can't see. <h2>
For example, you might edit the mask of the WIP layer while looking at the Prepare the image:
unmodified image. Pay attention so you don't screw up. Always verify that </h2>
you are editing the right thing.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Set an unmodified image as what you will view (the top one is easiest). <p>
Set the WIP mask as what you will edit. At some point, perhaps not First of all, be sure to avoid re-saving the image as a
immediately, you should magnify the image to about 400% (each pixel of JPEG. This causes quality loss. There is a special tool
the image is seen and edited as a 4x4 block of pixels on your screen).</p> called <a href=
"http://gnuwin32.sourceforge.net/packages/jpeg.htm">jpegtran</a>
<p>Select parts of the image that need to be 100% opaque or 0% opaque. that lets you crop an image without the normal quality
If you can select the object or background somewhat accurately by loss. If you want a GUI for it, use <a href=
color, do so. As needed to avoid selecting any pixels that should be "http://astron.berkeley.edu/~mperrin/software/ljcrop/">ljcrop</a>.
partially opaque (generally at the edge of the object) you should Otherwise, use it like this:
grow, shrink, and invert the selection.</p> </p>
<p>Fill the 100% opaque areas with white, and the 0% opaque areas with <blockquote>
black. This is most easily done by drag-and-drop from the <p>
foreground/background color indicator. You should not see anything happen, <code>jpegtran -trim -copy none -crop 512x1728+160+128
because you are viewing the unmodified image layer while editing the mask &lt; src.jpg &gt; cropped.jpg</code>
of the WIP layer. Large changes might be noticable in the thumbnail.</p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p>Now you must be zoomed in.</p>
<p>
<p>Check your work. Hide the top unmodified image layer. Display just the Bring that image up in your image editor. If you didn't
mask, which should be a white object on a black background (probably crop it yet, you may find that your image editor is very
with unedited grey at the edge). Now display the WIP layer normally, so slow. Rotate and crop the image as needed. Save the image —
that the mask is active. This should show your object over top of the choose whatever native format supports layers, masks,
next highest enabled layer, which should be green or magenta as needed alpha, etc. <a href="http://www.gimp.org/">GIMP</a> users
for maximum contrast. You might wish to flip back and forth between should choose "XCF", and Adobe Photoshop users should
those backgrounds by repeatedly clicking to enable/disable the green choose "PSD", for example.
layer. Fix any obvious and easy problems by editing the mask while </p>
viewing the mask.</p>
<p>
<p>Go back to viewing the top unmodified layer while editing the WIP mask. If you have rotated or cropped the image in your image
Set your drawing tool the paintbrush. For the brush, choose a small fuzzy editor, flatten it now. You need to have just one RGB layer
circle. The 5x5 size is good for most uses.</p> <i>without mask or alpha</i>.
</p>
<p>With a steady hand, trace around the image. Use black around the outside,
and white around the inside. Avoid making more than one pass without <p>
switching colors (and thus sides).</p> Open the layers dialog box. Replicate the one layer several
times. From top to bottom you will need something like
<p>Flip views a bit, checking to see that the mask is working well. When this:
the WIP layer is composited over the green or magenta, you should see a </p>
tiny bit of the original background as an ugly fringe around the edge.
If this fringe is missing, then you made the object mask too small. <ol>
The fringe consists of pixels that are neither 100% object nor 0% object. <li>unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)
For them, the mask should be neither 100% nor 0%. The fringe gets removed </li>
soon.</p>
<li>an image you will modify — the "WIP" layer
<p>View and edit the mask. Select by color, choosing either black or white. </li>
Most likely you will see unselected specks that are not quite the expected
color. Invert the selection, then paint these away using the pencil tool. <li>solid green (write-protect this if you can)
Do this operation for both white and black.</p> </li>
</blockquote> <li>solid magenta (write-protect this if you can)
</li>
<h2>Replace the fringe and junk pixels:</h2>
<blockquote> <li>unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)
</li>
<p>Still viewing the mask, select by color. Choose black. Shrink the </ol>
selection by several pixels, being sure to NOT shrink from the edges of
the mask (the shrink helps you avoid and recover from mistakes).</p> <p>
Give the WIP layer a rough initial mask. You might start
<p>Now disable the mask. View and edit the unmasked WIP layer. Using the with a selection, or by using the grayscale value of the
color picker tool, choose a color that is average for the object. WIP layer. You might invert the mask.
Drag-and-drop this color into the selection, thus removing most of the </p>
non-object pixels.</p>
<p>
<p>This solid color will compress well and will help prevent ugly color <b>Warning:</b> once you have the mask, you may not rotate
fringes when Tux&nbsp;Paint scales the image down. If the edge of the or scale the image normally. This would cause data loss.
object has multiple colors that are very different, you should split up You will be given special scaling instructions later.
your selection so that you can color the nearby background to be </p>
similar.</p> </blockquote>
<p>Now you will paint away the existing edge fringe. Be sure that you are <h2>
editing and viewing the WIP image. Frequent layer visibility changes will Prepare the mask:
help you to see what you are doing. You are likely to use all of:</p> </h2>
<ul> <blockquote>
<li>composited over green (mask enabled)</li> <p>
<li>composited over magenta (mask enabled)</li> Get used to doing Ctrl-click and Alt-click on the thumbnail
<li>original (the top or bottom layer)</li> images in the layers dialog. You will need this to control
<li>composited over the original (mask enabled)</li> what you are looking at and what you are editing. Sometimes
<li>raw WIP layer (mask DISABLED)</li> you will be editing things you can't see. For example, you
</ul> might edit the mask of the WIP layer while looking at the
unmodified image. Pay attention so you don't screw up.
<p>To reduce accidents, you may wish to select only those pixels that are Always verify that you are editing the right thing.
not grey in the mask. (Select by color from the mask, choose black, add </p>
mode, choose white, invert. Alternately: Select all, select by color from
the mask, subtract mode, choose black, choose white.) If you do this, <p>
you'll probably want to expand the selection a bit and/or hide the Set an unmodified image as what you will view (the top one
"crawling ants" line that marks the selection.</p> is easiest). Set the WIP mask as what you will edit. At
some point, perhaps not immediately, you should magnify the
<p>Use the clone tool and the brush tool. Vary the opacity as needed. image to about 400% (each pixel of the image is seen and
Use small round brushes mostly, perhaps 3x3 or 5x5, fuzzy or not. edited as a 4x4 block of pixels on your screen).
(It is generally nice to pair up fuzzy brushes with 100% opacity and </p>
non-fuzzy brushes with about 70% opacity.) Unusual drawing modes can be
helpful with semi-transparent objects.</p> <p>
Select parts of the image that need to be 100% opaque or 0%
<p>The goal is to remove the edge fringe, both inside and outside of opaque. If you can select the object or background somewhat
the object. The inside fringe, visible when the object is composited accurately by color, do so. As needed to avoid selecting
over magenta or green, must be removed for obvious reasons. The any pixels that should be partially opaque (generally at
outside fringe must also be removed because it will become visible the edge of the object) you should grow, shrink, and invert
when the image is scaled down. As an example, consider a 2x2 region of the selection.
pixels at the edge of a sharp-edged object. The left half is black </p>
and 0% opaque. The right half is white and 100% opaque. That is, we
have a white object on a black background. When Tux&nbsp;Paint scales this <p>
to 50% (a 1x1 pixel area), the result will be a grey 50% opaque pixel. Fill the 100% opaque areas with white, and the 0% opaque
The correct result would be a white 50% opaque pixel. To get this areas with black. This is most easily done by drag-and-drop
result, we would paint away the black pixels. They matter, despite from the foreground/background color indicator. You should
being 0% opaque.</p> not see anything happen, because you are viewing the
unmodified image layer while editing the mask of the WIP
<p>Tux&nbsp;Paint can scale images down by a very large factor, so it is layer. Large changes might be noticable in the thumbnail.
important to extend the edge of your object outward by a great deal. </p>
Right at the edge of your object, you should be very accurate about this.
As you go outward away from the object, you can get a bit sloppy. It is <p>
reasonable to paint outward by a dozen pixels or more. The farther you go, Now you must be zoomed in.
the more Tux&nbsp;Paint can scale down without creating ugly color fringes. </p>
For areas that are more than a few pixels away from the object edge, you
should use the pencil tool (or sloppy select with drag-and-drop color) to <p>
ensure that the result will compress well.</p> Check your work. Hide the top unmodified image layer.
</blockquote> Display just the mask, which should be a white object on a
black background (probably with unedited grey at the edge).
<h2>Save the image for Tux Paint</h2> Now display the WIP layer normally, so that the mask is
<blockquote> active. This should show your object over top of the next
highest enabled layer, which should be green or magenta as
<p>It is very easy to ruin your hard work. Image editors can silently needed for maximum contrast. You might wish to flip back
destroy pixels in 0% opaque areas. The conditions under which this and forth between those backgrounds by repeatedly clicking
happens may vary from version to version. If you are very trusting, to enable/disable the green layer. Fix any obvious and easy
you can try saving your image directly as a PNG. Be sure to read it problems by editing the mask while viewing the mask.
back in again to verify that the 0% opaque areas didn't turn black or </p>
white, which would create fringes when Tux&nbsp;Paint scales the image down.
If you need to scale your image to save space (and hide your mistakes), you <p>
are almost certain to destroy all the 0% opaque areas. So here is a better Go back to viewing the top unmodified layer while editing
way...</p> the WIP mask. Set your drawing tool the paintbrush. For the
brush, choose a small fuzzy circle. The 5x5 size is good
<h3>A Safer Way to Save:</h3> for most uses.
<blockquote> </p>
<p>Drag the mask from the layers dialog to the unused portion of <p>
the toolbar (right after the last drawing tool). This will create a With a steady hand, trace around the image. Use black
new image consisting of one layer that contains the mask data. Scale around the outside, and white around the inside. Avoid
this as desired, remembering the settings you use. Often you should making more than one pass without switching colors (and
start with an image that is about 700 to 1500 pixels across, and end thus sides).
up with one that is 300 to 400.</p> </p>
<p>Save the mask image as a NetPBM portable greymap ("<code>.pgm</code>") <p>
file. (If you are using an old release of The&nbsp;GIMP, you might need Flip views a bit, checking to see that the mask is working
to convert the image to greyscale before you can save it.) Choose the well. When the WIP layer is composited over the green or
more compact "RAW&nbsp;PGM" format. (The second character of the file magenta, you should see a tiny bit of the original
should be the ASCII digit "5", hex byte 0x35.)</p> background as an ugly fringe around the edge. If this
fringe is missing, then you made the object mask too small.
<p>You may close the mask image.</p> The fringe consists of pixels that are neither 100% object
nor 0% object. For them, the mask should be neither 100%
<p>Going back to the multi-layer image, now select the WIP layer. As you nor 0%. The fringe gets removed soon.
did with the mask, drag this from the layers dialog to the toolbar. You </p>
should get a single-layer image of your WIP data. If the mask came along
too, get rid of it. You should be seeing the object and the painted-away <p>
surroundings, without any mask thumbnail in the layers dialog. If you View and edit the mask. Select by color, choosing either
scaled the mask, then scale this image in exactly the same way. Save black or white. Most likely you will see unselected specks
this image as a NetPBM portable pixmap ("<code>.ppm</code>") file. that are not quite the expected color. Invert the
(Note: ppm, not pgm.) (If you choose the RAW&nbsp;PPM format, the selection, then paint these away using the pencil tool. Do
second byte of the file should be the ASCII digit "6", hex byte 0x36.)</p> this operation for both white and black.
</p>
<p>Now you need to merge the two files into one. Do that with the </blockquote>
<a href="http://netpbm.sourceforge.net/">pnmtopng</a> command, like
this:</p> <h2>
Replace the fringe and junk pixels:
<blockquote><p><code> </h2>
pnmtopng -force -compression 9 -alpha mask.pgm fg.ppm &gt;
final-stamp.png <blockquote>
</code></p></blockquote> <p>
</blockquote> Still viewing the mask, select by color. Choose black.
</blockquote> Shrink the selection by several pixels, being sure to NOT
shrink from the edges of the mask (the shrink helps you
</body></html> avoid and recover from mistakes).
</p>
<p>
Now disable the mask. View and edit the unmasked WIP layer.
Using the color picker tool, choose a color that is average
for the object. Drag-and-drop this color into the
selection, thus removing most of the non-object pixels.
</p>
<p>
This solid color will compress well and will help prevent
ugly color fringes when Tux&nbsp;Paint scales the image
down. If the edge of the object has multiple colors that
are very different, you should split up your selection so
that you can color the nearby background to be similar.
</p>
<p>
Now you will paint away the existing edge fringe. Be sure
that you are editing and viewing the WIP image. Frequent
layer visibility changes will help you to see what you are
doing. You are likely to use all of:
</p>
<ul>
<li>composited over green (mask enabled)
</li>
<li>composited over magenta (mask enabled)
</li>
<li>original (the top or bottom layer)
</li>
<li>composited over the original (mask enabled)
</li>
<li>raw WIP layer (mask DISABLED)
</li>
</ul>
<p>
To reduce accidents, you may wish to select only those
pixels that are not grey in the mask. (Select by color from
the mask, choose black, add mode, choose white, invert.
Alternately: Select all, select by color from the mask,
subtract mode, choose black, choose white.) If you do this,
you'll probably want to expand the selection a bit and/or
hide the "crawling ants" line that marks the selection.
</p>
<p>
Use the clone tool and the brush tool. Vary the opacity as
needed. Use small round brushes mostly, perhaps 3x3 or 5x5,
fuzzy or not. (It is generally nice to pair up fuzzy
brushes with 100% opacity and non-fuzzy brushes with about
70% opacity.) Unusual drawing modes can be helpful with
semi-transparent objects.
</p>
<p>
The goal is to remove the edge fringe, both inside and
outside of the object. The inside fringe, visible when the
object is composited over magenta or green, must be removed
for obvious reasons. The outside fringe must also be
removed because it will become visible when the image is
scaled down. As an example, consider a 2x2 region of pixels
at the edge of a sharp-edged object. The left half is black
and 0% opaque. The right half is white and 100% opaque.
That is, we have a white object on a black background. When
Tux&nbsp;Paint scales this to 50% (a 1x1 pixel area), the
result will be a grey 50% opaque pixel. The correct result
would be a white 50% opaque pixel. To get this result, we
would paint away the black pixels. They matter, despite
being 0% opaque.
</p>
<p>
Tux&nbsp;Paint can scale images down by a very large
factor, so it is important to extend the edge of your
object outward by a great deal. Right at the edge of your
object, you should be very accurate about this. As you go
outward away from the object, you can get a bit sloppy. It
is reasonable to paint outward by a dozen pixels or more.
The farther you go, the more Tux&nbsp;Paint can scale down
without creating ugly color fringes. For areas that are
more than a few pixels away from the object edge, you
should use the pencil tool (or sloppy select with
drag-and-drop color) to ensure that the result will
compress well.
</p>
</blockquote>
<h2>
Save the image for Tux Paint
</h2>
<blockquote>
<p>
It is very easy to ruin your hard work. Image editors can
silently destroy pixels in 0% opaque areas. The conditions
under which this happens may vary from version to version.
If you are very trusting, you can try saving your image
directly as a PNG. Be sure to read it back in again to
verify that the 0% opaque areas didn't turn black or white,
which would create fringes when Tux&nbsp;Paint scales the
image down. If you need to scale your image to save space
(and hide your mistakes), you are almost certain to destroy
all the 0% opaque areas. So here is a better way...
</p>
<h3>
A Safer Way to Save:
</h3>
<blockquote>
<p>
Drag the mask from the layers dialog to the unused
portion of the toolbar (right after the last drawing
tool). This will create a new image consisting of one
layer that contains the mask data. Scale this as desired,
remembering the settings you use. Often you should start
with an image that is about 700 to 1500 pixels across,
and end up with one that is 300 to 400.
</p>
<p>
Save the mask image as a NetPBM portable greymap
("<code>.pgm</code>") file. (If you are using an old
release of The&nbsp;GIMP, you might need to convert the
image to greyscale before you can save it.) Choose the
more compact "RAW&nbsp;PGM" format. (The second character
of the file should be the ASCII digit "5", hex byte
0x35.)
</p>
<p>
You may close the mask image.
</p>
<p>
Going back to the multi-layer image, now select the WIP
layer. As you did with the mask, drag this from the
layers dialog to the toolbar. You should get a
single-layer image of your WIP data. If the mask came
along too, get rid of it. You should be seeing the object
and the painted-away surroundings, without any mask
thumbnail in the layers dialog. If you scaled the mask,
then scale this image in exactly the same way. Save this
image as a NetPBM portable pixmap ("<code>.ppm</code>")
file. (Note: ppm, not pgm.) (If you choose the
RAW&nbsp;PPM format, the second byte of the file should
be the ASCII digit "6", hex byte 0x36.)
</p>
<p>
Now you need to merge the two files into one. Do that
with the <a href=
"http://netpbm.sourceforge.net/">pnmtopng</a> command,
like this:
</p>
<blockquote>
<p>
<code>pnmtopng -force -compression 9 -alpha mask.pgm
fg.ppm &gt; final-stamp.png</code>
</p>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
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