Pulling in initial English from tuxpaint-docs
Documentation is now maintained in a separate source repository, 'tuxpaint-docs', which allows for easier and more consisten translation of the documentation. Pulling in initial version of these docs, which contain a variety of minor updates (and also a few which had previously only been available as plain TXT are now available as HTML). Pulling in the English stuff.
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Tux Paint
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version 0.9.26
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Advanced Stamps HOWTO
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version 0.9.26 Advanced Stamps 'How-To'
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Copyright 2006-2008 by Albert Cahalan for the Tux Paint project
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New Breed Software
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albert@users.sf.net
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Copyright © 2006-2021 by Albert Cahalan and others; see AUTHORS.
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http://www.tuxpaint.org/
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About this HOWTO
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About this 'How-To'
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This HOWTO assumes that you want to make an excellent Tux Paint stamp,
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in PNG bitmapped format, from a JPEG image (e.g., a digital photograph).
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There are easier and faster methods that produce lower quality.
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This 'How-To' assumes that you want to make an excellent Tux Paint
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stamp, in PNG bitmapped format, from a JPEG image (e.g., a digital
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photograph). There are easier and faster methods that produce lower
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quality.
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This HOWTO assumes you are dealing with normal opaque objects. Dealing
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with semi-transparent objects (fire, moving fan blade, kid's baloon) or
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light-giving objects (fire, lightbulb, sun) is best done with custom
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software. Images with perfect solid-color backgrounds are also best done
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with custom software, but are not troublesome to do as follows.
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This 'How-To' assumes you are dealing with normal opaque objects.
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Dealing with semi-transparent objects (fire, moving fan blade, kid's
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balloon) or light-giving objects (fire, lightbulb, sun) is best done
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with custom software. Images with perfect solid-color backgrounds are
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also best done with custom software, but are not troublesome to do as
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follows.
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Image choice is crucial
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@ -36,13 +34,14 @@ Image choice is crucial
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suitable images. (Note: the *.mil sites include non-military content,
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too!)
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Your own images can be placed in the Public Domain by declaring it so.
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(Hire a lawyer if you feel the need for legal advice.)
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Your own images can be placed in the Public Domain or a suitable
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license, such as the Creative Commons CC0 by declaring it so. (Hire a
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lawyer if you feel the need for legal advice.)
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For personal use, any image you can legitimately modify and use for
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your own personal use should be fine.
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Image Size and Orientation:
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Image Size and Orientation
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You need an image that has a useful orientation. Perspective is an
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enemy. Images that show an object from the corner are difficult to fit
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@ -67,12 +66,11 @@ Image choice is crucial
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will need to draw new ones. If only one is buried, you might be able
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to copy the other one as a replacement.
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Prepare the image:
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Prepare the image
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First of all, be sure to avoid re-saving the image as a JPEG. This
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causes quality loss. There is a special tool called jpegtran that lets
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you crop an image without the normal quality loss. If you want a GUI for
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it, use ljcrop. Otherwise, use it like this:
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you crop an image without the normal quality loss.
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jpegtran -trim -copy none -crop 512x1728+160+128 < src.jpg >
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cropped.jpg
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@ -90,27 +88,27 @@ Prepare the image:
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top to bottom you will need something like this:
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1. unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)
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2. an image you will modify — the "WIP" layer
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2. an image you will modify — the "work in progress" layer
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3. solid green (write-protect this if you can)
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4. solid magenta (write-protect this if you can)
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5. unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)
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Give the WIP layer a rough initial mask. You might start with a
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selection, or by using the grayscale value of the WIP layer. You might
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invert the mask.
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Give the work in progress (WIP) layer a rough initial mask. You might
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start with a selection, or by using the grayscale value of the WIP
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layer. You might invert the mask.
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Warning: once you have the mask, you may not rotate or scale the image
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normally. This would cause data loss. You will be given special scaling
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instructions later.
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Prepare the mask:
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Prepare the mask
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Get used to doing Ctrl-click and Alt-click on the thumbnail images in
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the layers dialog. You will need this to control what you are looking at
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and what you are editing. Sometimes you will be editing things you can't
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see. For example, you might edit the mask of the WIP layer while looking
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at the unmodified image. Pay attention so you don't screw up. Always
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verify that you are editing the right thing.
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Get used to doing [Ctrl]-click and [Alt]-click on the thumbnail images
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in the layers dialog. You will need this to control what you are looking
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at and what you are editing. Sometimes you will be editing things you
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can't see. For example, you might edit the mask of the WIP layer while
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looking at the unmodified image. Pay attention so you don't screw up.
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Always verify that you are editing the right thing.
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Set an unmodified image as what you will view (the top one is easiest).
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Set the WIP mask as what you will edit. At some point, perhaps not
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@ -163,7 +161,7 @@ Prepare the mask:
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expected color. Invert the selection, then paint these away using the
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pencil tool. Do this operation for both white and black.
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Replace the fringe and junk pixels:
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Replace the fringe and junk pixels
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Still viewing the mask, select by color. Choose black. Shrink the
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selection by several pixels, being sure to NOT shrink from the edges of
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* composited over magenta (mask enabled)
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* original (the top or bottom layer)
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* composited over the original (mask enabled)
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* raw WIP layer (mask DISABLED)
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* raw WIP layer (mask disabled)
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To reduce accidents, you may wish to select only those pixels that are
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not grey in the mask. (Select by color from the mask, choose black, add
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@ -236,7 +234,7 @@ Save the image for Tux Paint
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almost certain to destroy all the 0% opaque areas. So here is a better
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way...
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A Safer Way to Save:
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A Safer Way to Save
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Drag the mask from the layers dialog to the unused portion of the
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toolbar (right after the last drawing tool). This will create a new
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painted-away surroundings, without any mask thumbnail in the layers
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dialog. If you scaled the mask, then scale this image in exactly the
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same way. Save this image as a NetPBM portable pixmap (".ppm") file.
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(Note: ppm, not pgm.) (If you choose the RAW PPM format, the second
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(Note: .ppm, not .pgm.) (If you choose the RAW PPM format, the second
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byte of the file should be the ASCII digit "6", hex byte 0x36.)
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Now you need to merge the two files into one. Do that with the
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