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Tux Paint
version 0.9.31 Advanced Stamps 'How-To'
Copyright © 2006-2022 by Albert Cahalan and others; see AUTHORS.txt.
Copyright © 2006-2022 by Albert Cahalan and others; see AUTHORS.txt.
https://tuxpaint.org/
júní 4, 2022
júní 4, 2022
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+----------------------------------------+
|Table of Contents |
|----------------------------------------|
| * About this 'How-To' |
| * Image choice is crucial |
| * Prepare the mask |
| * Replace the fringe and junk pixels |
| * Save the image for Tux Paint |
+----------------------------------------+
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+----------------------------------------+
| Table of Contents |
|----------------------------------------|
| * About this 'How-To' |
| * Image choice is crucial |
| * Prepare the mask |
| * Replace the fringe and junk pixels |
| * Save the image for Tux Paint |
+----------------------------------------+
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About this 'How-To'
This 'How-To' assumes that you want to make an excellent Tux Paint
stamp, in PNG bitmapped format, from a JPEG image (e.g., a digital
photograph). There are easier and faster methods that produce lower
quality.
This 'How-To' assumes that you want to make an excellent Tux Paint stamp,
in PNG bitmapped format, from a JPEG image (e.g., a digital photograph).
There are easier and faster methods that produce lower quality.
This 'How-To' assumes you are dealing with normal opaque objects.
Dealing with semi-transparent objects (fire, moving fan blade, kid's
balloon) or light-giving objects (fire, lightbulb, sun) is best done
with custom software. Images with perfect solid-color backgrounds are
also best done with custom software, but are not troublesome to do as
follows.
This 'How-To' assumes you are dealing with normal opaque objects. Dealing
with semi-transparent objects (fire, moving fan blade, kid's balloon) or
light-giving objects (fire, lightbulb, sun) is best done with custom
software. Images with perfect solid-color backgrounds are also best done
with custom software, but are not troublesome to do as follows.
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Image choice is crucial
License
License
If you wish to submit artwork to the Tux Paint developers for
consideration for inclusion in the official project, or if you wish to
release your own copy of Tux Paint, bundled with your own graphics,
you need an image that is compatible with the GNU General Public
License used by Tux Paint.
If you wish to submit artwork to the Tux Paint developers for
consideration for inclusion in the official project, or if you wish to
release your own copy of Tux Paint, bundled with your own graphics, you
need an image that is compatible with the GNU General Public License
used by Tux Paint.
Images produced by the US government are Public Domain, but be aware
that the US government sometimes uses other images on the web. Google
image queries including either site:gov or site:mil will supply many
suitable images. (Note: the *.mil sites include non-military content,
too!)
Images produced by the US government are Public Domain, but be aware
that the US government sometimes uses other images on the web. Google
image queries including either site:gov or site:mil will supply many
suitable images. (Note: the *.mil sites include non-military content,
too!)
Your own images can be placed in the Public Domain or a suitable
license, such as the Creative Commons CC0 by declaring it so. (Hire a
lawyer if you feel the need for legal advice.)
Your own images can be placed in the Public Domain or a suitable
license, such as the Creative Commons CC0 by declaring it so. (Hire a
lawyer if you feel the need for legal advice.)
For personal use, any image you can legitimately modify and use for
your own personal use should be fine.
For personal use, any image you can legitimately modify and use for
your own personal use should be fine.
Image Size and Orientation
Image Size and Orientation
You need an image that has a useful orientation. Perspective is an
enemy. Images that show an object from the corner are difficult to fit
into a nice drawing. As a general rule, telephoto side views are the
best. The impossible ideal is that, for example, two wheels of a car
are perfectly hidden behind the other two.
You need an image that has a useful orientation. Perspective is an
enemy. Images that show an object from the corner are difficult to fit
into a nice drawing. As a general rule, telephoto side views are the
best. The impossible ideal is that, for example, two wheels of a car
are perfectly hidden behind the other two.
Rotating an image can make it blurry, especially if you only rotate by
a few degrees. Images that don't need rotation are best, images that
need lots of rotation (30 to 60 degrees) are next best, and images
that need just a few degrees are worst. Rotation will also make an
image darker because most image editing software is very bad about
gamma handling. (Rotation is only legitimate for gamma=1.0 images.)
Rotating an image can make it blurry, especially if you only rotate by
a few degrees. Images that don't need rotation are best, images that
need lots of rotation (30 to 60 degrees) are next best, and images that
need just a few degrees are worst. Rotation will also make an image
darker because most image editing software is very bad about gamma
handling. (Rotation is only legitimate for gamma=1.0 images.)
Very large images are more forgiving of mistakes, and thus easier to
work with. Choose an image with an object that is over 1000 pixels
across if you can. You can shrink this later to hide your mistakes.
Very large images are more forgiving of mistakes, and thus easier to
work with. Choose an image with an object that is over 1000 pixels
across if you can. You can shrink this later to hide your mistakes.
Be sure that the image is not too grainy, dim, or washed out.
Be sure that the image is not too grainy, dim, or washed out.
Pay attention to feet and wheels. If they are buried in something, you
will need to draw new ones. If only one is buried, you might be able
to copy the other one as a replacement.
Pay attention to feet and wheels. If they are buried in something, you
will need to draw new ones. If only one is buried, you might be able to
copy the other one as a replacement.
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Prepare the image
First of all, be sure to avoid re-saving the image as a JPEG. This
causes quality loss. There is a special tool called jpegtran that lets
you crop an image without the normal quality loss.
First of all, be sure to avoid re-saving the image as a JPEG. This causes
quality loss. There is a special tool called jpegtran that lets you crop an
image without the normal quality loss.
jpegtran -trim -copy none -crop 512x1728+160+128 < src.jpg >
cropped.jpg
jpegtran -trim -copy none -crop 512x1728+160+128 < src.jpg >
cropped.jpg
Bring that image up in your image editor. If you didn't crop it yet, you
may find that your image editor is very slow. Rotate and crop the image
as needed. Save the image — choose whatever native format supports
layers, masks, alpha, etc. GIMP users should choose "XCF", and Adobe
Photoshop users should choose "PSD", for example.
Bring that image up in your image editor. If you didn't crop it yet, you
may find that your image editor is very slow. Rotate and crop the image as
needed. Save the image — choose whatever native format supports layers,
masks, alpha, etc. GIMP users should choose "XCF", and Adobe Photoshop
users should choose "PSD", for example.
If you have rotated or cropped the image in your image editor, flatten
it now. You need to have just one RGB layer without mask or alpha.
If you have rotated or cropped the image in your image editor, flatten it
now. You need to have just one RGB layer without mask or alpha.
Open the layers dialog box. Replicate the one layer several times. From
top to bottom you will need something like this:
Open the layers dialog box. Replicate the one layer several times. From top
to bottom you will need something like this:
1. unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)
2. an image you will modify — the "work in progress" layer
3. solid green (write-protect this if you can)
4. solid magenta (write-protect this if you can)
5. unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)
1. unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)
2. an image you will modify — the "work in progress" layer
3. solid green (write-protect this if you can)
4. solid magenta (write-protect this if you can)
5. unmodified image (write-protect this if you can)
Give the work in progress (WIP) layer a rough initial mask. You might
start with a selection, or by using the grayscale value of the WIP
layer. You might invert the mask.
Give the work in progress (WIP) layer a rough initial mask. You might start
with a selection, or by using the grayscale value of the WIP layer. You
might invert the mask.
Warning: once you have the mask, you may not rotate or scale the image
normally. This would cause data loss. You will be given special scaling
instructions later.
Warning: once you have the mask, you may not rotate or scale the image
normally. This would cause data loss. You will be given special scaling
instructions later.
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Prepare the mask
Get used to doing [Control]-click and [Alt]-click on the thumbnail
images in the layers dialog. You will need this to control what you are
looking at and what you are editing. Sometimes you will be editing
things you can't see. For example, you might edit the mask of the WIP
layer while looking at the unmodified image. Pay attention so you don't
screw up. Always verify that you are editing the right thing.
Get used to doing [Control]-click and [Alt]-click on the thumbnail images
in the layers dialog. You will need this to control what you are looking at
and what you are editing. Sometimes you will be editing things you can't
see. For example, you might edit the mask of the WIP layer while looking at
the unmodified image. Pay attention so you don't screw up. Always verify
that you are editing the right thing.
Set an unmodified image as what you will view (the top one is easiest).
Set the WIP mask as what you will edit. At some point, perhaps not
immediately, you should magnify the image to about 400% (each pixel of
the image is seen and edited as a 4x4 block of pixels on your screen).
Set an unmodified image as what you will view (the top one is easiest). Set
the WIP mask as what you will edit. At some point, perhaps not immediately,
you should magnify the image to about 400% (each pixel of the image is seen
and edited as a 4x4 block of pixels on your screen).
Select parts of the image that need to be 100% opaque or 0% opaque. If
you can select the object or background somewhat accurately by color, do
so. As needed to avoid selecting any pixels that should be partially
opaque (generally at the edge of the object) you should grow, shrink,
and invert the selection.
Select parts of the image that need to be 100% opaque or 0% opaque. If you
can select the object or background somewhat accurately by color, do so. As
needed to avoid selecting any pixels that should be partially opaque
(generally at the edge of the object) you should grow, shrink, and invert
the selection.
Fill the 100% opaque areas with white, and the 0% opaque areas with
black. This is most easily done by drag-and-drop from the
foreground/background color indicator. You should not see anything
happen, because you are viewing the unmodified image layer while editing
the mask of the WIP layer. Large changes might be noticable in the
thumbnail.
Fill the 100% opaque areas with white, and the 0% opaque areas with black.
This is most easily done by drag-and-drop from the foreground/background
color indicator. You should not see anything happen, because you are
viewing the unmodified image layer while editing the mask of the WIP layer.
Large changes might be noticable in the thumbnail.
Now you must be zoomed in.
Now you must be zoomed in.
Check your work. Hide the top unmodified image layer. Display just the
mask, which should be a white object on a black background (probably
with unedited grey at the edge). Now display the WIP layer normally, so
that the mask is active. This should show your object over top of the
next highest enabled layer, which should be green or magenta as needed
for maximum contrast. You might wish to flip back and forth between
those backgrounds by repeatedly clicking to enable/disable the green
layer. Fix any obvious and easy problems by editing the mask while
viewing the mask.
Check your work. Hide the top unmodified image layer. Display just the
mask, which should be a white object on a black background (probably with
unedited grey at the edge). Now display the WIP layer normally, so that the
mask is active. This should show your object over top of the next highest
enabled layer, which should be green or magenta as needed for maximum
contrast. You might wish to flip back and forth between those backgrounds
by repeatedly clicking to enable/disable the green layer. Fix any obvious
and easy problems by editing the mask while viewing the mask.
Go back to viewing the top unmodified layer while editing the WIP mask.
Set your drawing tool the paintbrush. For the brush, choose a small
fuzzy circle. The 5x5 size is good for most uses.
Go back to viewing the top unmodified layer while editing the WIP mask. Set
your drawing tool the paintbrush. For the brush, choose a small fuzzy
circle. The 5x5 size is good for most uses.
With a steady hand, trace around the image. Use black around the
outside, and white around the inside. Avoid making more than one pass
without switching colors (and thus sides).
With a steady hand, trace around the image. Use black around the outside,
and white around the inside. Avoid making more than one pass without
switching colors (and thus sides).
Flip views a bit, checking to see that the mask is working well. When
the WIP layer is composited over the green or magenta, you should see a
tiny bit of the original background as an ugly fringe around the edge.
If this fringe is missing, then you made the object mask too small. The
fringe consists of pixels that are neither 100% object nor 0% object.
For them, the mask should be neither 100% nor 0%. The fringe gets
removed soon.
Flip views a bit, checking to see that the mask is working well. When the
WIP layer is composited over the green or magenta, you should see a tiny
bit of the original background as an ugly fringe around the edge. If this
fringe is missing, then you made the object mask too small. The fringe
consists of pixels that are neither 100% object nor 0% object. For them,
the mask should be neither 100% nor 0%. The fringe gets removed soon.
View and edit the mask. Select by color, choosing either black or white.
Most likely you will see unselected specks that are not quite the
expected color. Invert the selection, then paint these away using the
pencil tool. Do this operation for both white and black.
View and edit the mask. Select by color, choosing either black or white.
Most likely you will see unselected specks that are not quite the expected
color. Invert the selection, then paint these away using the pencil tool.
Do this operation for both white and black.
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Replace the fringe and junk pixels
Still viewing the mask, select by color. Choose black. Shrink the
selection by several pixels, being sure to NOT shrink from the edges of
the mask (the shrink helps you avoid and recover from mistakes).
Still viewing the mask, select by color. Choose black. Shrink the selection
by several pixels, being sure to NOT shrink from the edges of the mask (the
shrink helps you avoid and recover from mistakes).
Now disable the mask. View and edit the unmasked WIP layer. Using the
color picker tool, choose a color that is average for the object.
Drag-and-drop this color into the selection, thus removing most of the
non-object pixels.
Now disable the mask. View and edit the unmasked WIP layer. Using the color
picker tool, choose a color that is average for the object. Drag-and-drop
this color into the selection, thus removing most of the non-object pixels.
This solid color will compress well and will help prevent ugly color
fringes when Tux Paint scales the image down. If the edge of the object
has multiple colors that are very different, you should split up your
selection so that you can color the nearby background to be similar.
This solid color will compress well and will help prevent ugly color
fringes when Tux Paint scales the image down. If the edge of the object has
multiple colors that are very different, you should split up your selection
so that you can color the nearby background to be similar.
Now you will paint away the existing edge fringe. Be sure that you are
editing and viewing the WIP image. Frequent layer visibility changes
will help you to see what you are doing. You are likely to use all of:
Now you will paint away the existing edge fringe. Be sure that you are
editing and viewing the WIP image. Frequent layer visibility changes will
help you to see what you are doing. You are likely to use all of:
* composited over green (mask enabled)
* composited over magenta (mask enabled)
* original (the top or bottom layer)
* composited over the original (mask enabled)
* raw WIP layer (mask disabled)
+ composited over green (mask enabled)
+ composited over magenta (mask enabled)
+ original (the top or bottom layer)
+ composited over the original (mask enabled)
+ raw WIP layer (mask disabled)
To reduce accidents, you may wish to select only those pixels that are
not grey in the mask. (Select by color from the mask, choose black, add
mode, choose white, invert. Alternately: Select all, select by color
from the mask, subtract mode, choose black, choose white.) If you do
this, you'll probably want to expand the selection a bit and/or hide the
"crawling ants" line that marks the selection.
To reduce accidents, you may wish to select only those pixels that are not
grey in the mask. (Select by color from the mask, choose black, add mode,
choose white, invert. Alternately: Select all, select by color from the
mask, subtract mode, choose black, choose white.) If you do this, you'll
probably want to expand the selection a bit and/or hide the "crawling ants"
line that marks the selection.
Use the clone tool and the brush tool. Vary the opacity as needed. Use
small round brushes mostly, perhaps 3x3 or 5x5, fuzzy or not. (It is
generally nice to pair up fuzzy brushes with 100% opacity and non-fuzzy
brushes with about 70% opacity.) Unusual drawing modes can be helpful
with semi-transparent objects.
Use the clone tool and the brush tool. Vary the opacity as needed. Use
small round brushes mostly, perhaps 3x3 or 5x5, fuzzy or not. (It is
generally nice to pair up fuzzy brushes with 100% opacity and non-fuzzy
brushes with about 70% opacity.) Unusual drawing modes can be helpful with
semi-transparent objects.
The goal is to remove the edge fringe, both inside and outside of the
object. The inside fringe, visible when the object is composited over
magenta or green, must be removed for obvious reasons. The outside
fringe must also be removed because it will become visible when the
image is scaled down. As an example, consider a 2x2 region of pixels at
the edge of a sharp-edged object. The left half is black and 0% opaque.
The right half is white and 100% opaque. That is, we have a white object
on a black background. When Tux Paint scales this to 50% (a 1x1 pixel
area), the result will be a grey 50% opaque pixel. The correct result
would be a white 50% opaque pixel. To get this result, we would paint
away the black pixels. They matter, despite being 0% opaque.
The goal is to remove the edge fringe, both inside and outside of the
object. The inside fringe, visible when the object is composited over
magenta or green, must be removed for obvious reasons. The outside fringe
must also be removed because it will become visible when the image is
scaled down. As an example, consider a 2x2 region of pixels at the edge of
a sharp-edged object. The left half is black and 0% opaque. The right half
is white and 100% opaque. That is, we have a white object on a black
background. When Tux Paint scales this to 50% (a 1x1 pixel area), the
result will be a grey 50% opaque pixel. The correct result would be a white
50% opaque pixel. To get this result, we would paint away the black pixels.
They matter, despite being 0% opaque.
Tux Paint can scale images down by a very large factor, so it is
important to extend the edge of your object outward by a great deal.
Right at the edge of your object, you should be very accurate about
this. As you go outward away from the object, you can get a bit sloppy.
It is reasonable to paint outward by a dozen pixels or more. The farther
you go, the more Tux Paint can scale down without creating ugly color
fringes. For areas that are more than a few pixels away from the object
edge, you should use the pencil tool (or sloppy select with
drag-and-drop color) to ensure that the result will compress well.
Tux Paint can scale images down by a very large factor, so it is important
to extend the edge of your object outward by a great deal. Right at the
edge of your object, you should be very accurate about this. As you go
outward away from the object, you can get a bit sloppy. It is reasonable to
paint outward by a dozen pixels or more. The farther you go, the more Tux
Paint can scale down without creating ugly color fringes. For areas that
are more than a few pixels away from the object edge, you should use the
pencil tool (or sloppy select with drag-and-drop color) to ensure that the
result will compress well.
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Save the image for Tux Paint
It is very easy to ruin your hard work. Image editors can silently
destroy pixels in 0% opaque areas. The conditions under which this
happens may vary from version to version. If you are very trusting, you
can try saving your image directly as a PNG. Be sure to read it back in
again to verify that the 0% opaque areas didn't turn black or white,
which would create fringes when Tux Paint scales the image down. If you
need to scale your image to save space (and hide your mistakes), you are
almost certain to destroy all the 0% opaque areas. So here is a better
way...
It is very easy to ruin your hard work. Image editors can silently destroy
pixels in 0% opaque areas. The conditions under which this happens may vary
from version to version. If you are very trusting, you can try saving your
image directly as a PNG. Be sure to read it back in again to verify that
the 0% opaque areas didn't turn black or white, which would create fringes
when Tux Paint scales the image down. If you need to scale your image to
save space (and hide your mistakes), you are almost certain to destroy all
the 0% opaque areas. So here is a better way...
A Safer Way to Save
A Safer Way to Save
Drag the mask from the layers dialog to the unused portion of the
toolbar (right after the last drawing tool). This will create a new
image consisting of one layer that contains the mask data. Scale this
as desired, remembering the settings you use. Often you should start
with an image that is about 700 to 1500 pixels across, and end up with
one that is 300 to 400.
Drag the mask from the layers dialog to the unused portion of the
toolbar (right after the last drawing tool). This will create a new
image consisting of one layer that contains the mask data. Scale this
as desired, remembering the settings you use. Often you should start
with an image that is about 700 to 1500 pixels across, and end up with
one that is 300 to 400.
Save the mask image as a NetPBM portable greymap (".pgm") file. (If
you are using an old release of The GIMP, you might need to convert
the image to greyscale before you can save it.) Choose the more
compact "RAW PGM" format. (The second character of the file should be
the ASCII digit "5", hex byte 0x35.)
Save the mask image as a NetPBM portable greymap (".pgm") file. (If you
are using an old release of The GIMP, you might need to convert the
image to greyscale before you can save it.) Choose the more compact
"RAW PGM" format. (The second character of the file should be the ASCII
digit "5", hex byte 0x35.)
You may close the mask image.
You may close the mask image.
Going back to the multi-layer image, now select the WIP layer. As you
did with the mask, drag this from the layers dialog to the toolbar.
You should get a single-layer image of your WIP data. If the mask came
along too, get rid of it. You should be seeing the object and the
painted-away surroundings, without any mask thumbnail in the layers
dialog. If you scaled the mask, then scale this image in exactly the
same way. Save this image as a NetPBM portable pixmap (".ppm") file.
(Note: .ppm, not .pgm.) (If you choose the RAW PPM format, the second
byte of the file should be the ASCII digit "6", hex byte 0x36.)
Going back to the multi-layer image, now select the WIP layer. As you
did with the mask, drag this from the layers dialog to the toolbar. You
should get a single-layer image of your WIP data. If the mask came
along too, get rid of it. You should be seeing the object and the
painted-away surroundings, without any mask thumbnail in the layers
dialog. If you scaled the mask, then scale this image in exactly the
same way. Save this image as a NetPBM portable pixmap (".ppm") file.
(Note: .ppm, not .pgm.) (If you choose the RAW PPM format, the second
byte of the file should be the ASCII digit "6", hex byte 0x36.)
Now you need to merge the two files into one. Do that with the
pnmtopng command, like this:
Now you need to merge the two files into one. Do that with the pnmtopng
command, like this:
pnmtopng -force -compression 9 -alpha mask.pgm fg.ppm >
final-stamp.png
pnmtopng -force -compression 9 -alpha mask.pgm fg.ppm >
final-stamp.png

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Tux Paint
version 0.9.31
version 0.9.31
Environment Variables Documentation
Copyright © 2021-2023 by various contributors; see AUTHORS.txt.
@ -7,91 +7,97 @@
maí 5, 2023
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Tux Paint understands a number of environment variables, either directly,
or indirectly by the libraries that it utilizes.
Tux Paint understands a number of environment variables, either directly, or
indirectly by the libraries that it utilizes.
Storage-related environment variables
HOME
HOME
Specifies the user's "home directory", which is used to locate
numerous other files or directories. In some cases, it is utilized
as part of a fall-back location, when other environment variables
(elsewhere in this documentation) are not set. Sometimes, the
location to use can be overridden by options provided on the
command-line or via Tux Paint's configuration file. See the
"OPTIONS" documentation for details.
Specifies the user's "home directory", which is used to locate numerous
other files or directories. In some cases, it is utilized as part of a
fall-back location, when other environment variables (elsewhere in this
documentation) are not set. Sometimes, the location to use can be
overridden by options provided on the command-line or via Tux Paint's
configuration file. See the "OPTIONS" documentation for details.
A few examples of where "$HOME" is used include:
A few examples of where "$HOME" is used include:
* The location of Tux Paint's configuration file
* The basis of where Tux Paint saves and loads users' drawings
* The location of a user's private collection of data files —
stamps, brushes, etc. — (versus those available system wide)
+ The location of Tux Paint's configuration file
+ The basis of where Tux Paint saves and loads users' drawings
+ The location of a user's private collection of data files — stamps,
brushes, etc. — (versus those available system wide)
XDG_CONFIG_HOME
On Linux and other platforms where the X Desktop Group standards
are used, the location of the user's configuration files.
Specifically, where to find "user-dirs.dirs", where the
"XDG_PICTURES_DIR" might be defined. It is used for exporting
drawings and animated GIFs. Generally it's set to something like
"$HOME/Pictures/". If not specified, Tux Paint checks in the
directory "$HOME/.config/". If the configuration cannot be found,
Tux Paint simply exports drawings and GIFs to "$HOME".
XDG_CONFIG_HOME
XDG_DATA_HOME
On Linux and other platforms where the X Desktop Group standards are used,
the location of the user's configuration files. Specifically, where to find
"user-dirs.dirs", where the "XDG_PICTURES_DIR" might be defined. It is used
for exporting drawings and animated GIFs. Generally it's set to something
like "$HOME/Pictures/". If not specified, Tux Paint checks in the directory
"$HOME/.config/". If the configuration cannot be found, Tux Paint simply
exports drawings and GIFs to "$HOME".
On Linux and other platforms where the X Desktop Group standards
are used, the location of the user's data directories.
Specifically, where to find the "Trash" directory. It is used when
deleting images from Tux Paint's "Open" dialog. If not set, the
location "$HOME/.local/share/Trash/" is used, if available. If
not, images are simply deleted, rather than moved anywhere.
TEMP
Specifies the location where temporary files may be created. Only
used by Tux Paint on Microsoft Windows OSes. Uses "userdata" if
not set.
XDG_DATA_HOME
On Linux and other platforms where the X Desktop Group standards are used,
the location of the user's data directories. Specifically, where to find
the "Trash" directory. It is used when deleting images from Tux Paint's
"Open" dialog. If not set, the location "$HOME/.local/share/Trash/" is
used, if available. If not, images are simply deleted, rather than moved
anywhere.
TEMP
Specifies the location where temporary files may be created. Only used by
Tux Paint on Microsoft Windows OSes. Uses "userdata" if not set.
Language-related environment variables
LANG
LANG
LANGUAGE
LC_ALL
LC_MESSAGES
LANGUAGE
Specify the language Tux Paint should utilize in its user interface.
Overridde by the "--lang" and "--locale" command-line options or their
configuration file counterparts. The "LANGUAGE" environment variable is
used, if set. If not, "LC_ALL" is used as a fallback. Then "LC_MESSAGES",
and finally "LANG".
LC_ALL
LC_MESSAGES
Specify the language Tux Paint should utilize in its user
interface. Overridde by the "--lang" and "--locale" command-line
options or their configuration file counterparts. The "LANGUAGE"
environment variable is used, if set. If not, "LC_ALL" is used as
a fallback. Then "LC_MESSAGES", and finally "LANG".
Display-related environment variables
The following are a few of the environment variables supported by Simple
DirectMedia Layer (libSDL) — which Tux Paint utilizes for displaying
graphics, playing sounds, and receiving mouse, keyboard, and joystick
input — and which may be useful to users of Tux Paint.
The following are a few of the environment variables supported by Simple
DirectMedia Layer (libSDL) — which Tux Paint utilizes for displaying graphics,
playing sounds, and receiving mouse, keyboard, and joystick input — and which
may be useful to users of Tux Paint.
SDL_VIDEO_ALLOW_SCREENSAVER
Specifies whether Tux Paint should allow a screensaver to run. Can be set
to '1' (true) by Tux Paint itself by issuing the command-line option
"--allowscreensaver" or its configuration file counterpart.
SDL_VIDEO_WINDOW_POS
Requests where to position Tux Paint's window, and can be used to specify
what display to place a fullscreen Tux Paint in a multi-monitor
configuration. If not set, or set to "nopref" (meaning "no preference"),
Simple DirectMedia Layer (libSDL) decides. Can be set to an X,Y coordinate
(e.g. 200,100), or "center" (meaning "center").
SDL_VIDEO_ALLOW_SCREENSAVER
Specifies whether Tux Paint should allow a screensaver to run. Can
be set to '1' (true) by Tux Paint itself by issuing the
command-line option "--allowscreensaver" or its configuration file
counterpart.
SDL_VIDEO_WINDOW_POS
Requests where to position Tux Paint's window, and can be used to
specify what display to place a fullscreen Tux Paint in a
multi-monitor configuration. If not set, or set to "nopref"
(meaning "no preference"), Simple DirectMedia Layer (libSDL)
decides. Can be set to an X,Y coordinate (e.g. 200,100), or
"center" (meaning "center").

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Tux Paint
version 0.9.31
version 0.9.31
PNG Documentation
Copyright © 2007-2022 by various contributors; see AUTHORS.txt.
https://tuxpaint.org/
júní 4, 2022
júní 4, 2022
About PNGs
About PNGs
PNG is the Portable Network Graphic format. It is an open standard, not
burdened by patents (like GIFs). It is a highly compressed format (though
not "lossy" like JPEGs - lossiness allows files to be much smaller, but
introduces 'mistakes' in the image when saved), and supports 24-bit color
(16.7 million colors) as well as a full "alpha channel" - that is, each
pixel can have a varying degree of transparency.
PNG is the Portable Network Graphic format. It is an open standard, not
burdened by patents (like GIFs). It is a highly compressed format (though not
"lossy" like JPEGs - lossiness allows files to be much smaller, but introduces
'mistakes' in the image when saved), and supports 24-bit color (16.7 million
colors) as well as a full "alpha channel" - that is, each pixel can have a
varying degree of transparency.
For more information, visit: http://www.libpng.org/
For more information, visit: http://www.libpng.org/
These features (openness, losslessness, compression, transparency/alpha)
make it the best choice for Tux Paint. (Tux Paint's support for the PNG
format comes from the Open Source SDL_Image library, which in turn gets it
from the libPNG library.)
These features (openness, losslessness, compression, transparency/alpha) make
it the best choice for Tux Paint. (Tux Paint's support for the PNG format comes
from the Open Source SDL_Image library, which in turn gets it from the libPNG
library.)
Support for many colors allows photo-quality "rubber stamp" images to be
used in Tux Paint, and alpha transparency allows for high-quality brushes.
Support for many colors allows photo-quality "rubber stamp" images to be used
in Tux Paint, and alpha transparency allows for high-quality brushes.
How To Make PNGs
The following is a very brief list of ways to create PNGs or convert
existing images into PNGs.
The following is a very brief list of ways to create PNGs or convert existing
images into PNGs.
GIMP & Krita
GIMP & Krita
Excellent tools with which to create PNG images for use in Tux
Paint are GIMP and Krita, both high-quality Open Source
interactive drawing and photo editing programs.
Excellent tools with which to create PNG images for use in Tux Paint are
GIMP and Krita, both high-quality Open Source interactive drawing and photo
editing programs.
It is likely that one or both are already installed on your
system. If not, they should be readily available from your Linux
distribution's software repository. If not, or to learn more,
visit http://www.gimp.org/ and http://www.krita.org/,
respectively.
It is likely that one or both are already installed on your system. If not,
they should be readily available from your Linux distribution's software
repository. If not, or to learn more, visit http://www.gimp.org/ and http:/
/www.krita.org/, respectively.
Command-line Tools
NetPBM
The Portable Bitmap tools (collectively known as
"NetPBM") is a collection of Open Source command-line
tools which convert to and from various formats,
including GIF, TIFF, BMP, PNG, and many more.
Command-line Tools
It is possible that it's already installed on your
system. If not, they it be readily available from
your Linux distribution's software repository. If
not, or to learn more, visit
http://netpbm.sourceforge.net/.
NetPBM
cjpeg/djpeg
The Portable Bitmap tools (collectively known as "NetPBM") is a
collection of Open Source command-line tools which convert to and from
various formats, including GIF, TIFF, BMP, PNG, and many more.
It is possible that it's already installed on your system. If not, they
it be readily available from your Linux distribution's software
repository. If not, or to learn more, visit http://
netpbm.sourceforge.net/.
cjpeg/djpeg
The "cjpeg" and "djpeg" command-line programs convert between the
NetPBM Portable Any Map (PNM) format and JPEGs. It is possible that
it's already installed on your system. If not, they it be readily
available from your Linux distribution's software repository. If not,
or to learn more, visit https://jpegclub.org/.
Proprietary Software for Windows
+ CorelDRAW (Corel) — http://www.corel.com/
+ Illustrator (Adobe) — http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html
+ Paint Shop Pro (Corel) — https://www.paintshoppro.com/
+ Photoshop (Adobe) — http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop.html
+ PIXresizer (Bluefive software) — http://bluefive.pair.com/
pixresizer.htm
Macintosh Users
+ CorelDRAW (Corel) — http://www.corel.com/
+ GraphicConverter (Lemke Software) — https://www.lemkesoft.de/
mac-fotobearbeitung-mac-diashow-mac-grafikprogramm-mac-bildbetrachter/
+ Illustrator (Adobe) — http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html
+ Photoshop (Adobe) — http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop.html
The "cjpeg" and "djpeg" command-line programs convert
between the NetPBM Portable Any Map (PNM) format and
JPEGs. It is possible that it's already installed on
your system. If not, they it be readily available
from your Linux distribution's software repository.
If not, or to learn more, visit
https://jpegclub.org/.
Proprietary Software for Windows
* CorelDRAW (Corel) — http://www.corel.com/
* Illustrator (Adobe) —
http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html
* Paint Shop Pro (Corel) — https://www.paintshoppro.com/
* Photoshop (Adobe) —
http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop.html
* PIXresizer (Bluefive software) —
http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm
Macintosh Users
* CorelDRAW (Corel) — http://www.corel.com/
* GraphicConverter (Lemke Software) —
https://www.lemkesoft.de/mac-fotobearbeitung-mac-diashow-mac-grafikprogramm-mac-bildbetrachter/
* Illustrator (Adobe) —
http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html
* Photoshop (Adobe) —
http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop.html

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Tux Paint
version 0.9.31
version 0.9.31
Signals Documentation
Copyright © 2019-2022 by various contributors; see AUTHORS.txt.
https://tuxpaint.org/
júní 4, 2022
júní 4, 2022
Tux Paint responds to the following signals (which can be sent to the
program's process via `kill` or `killall`, for example).
Tux Paint responds to the following signals (which can be sent to the program's
process via `kill` or `killall`, for example).
SIGTERM (also, [Control] + [C] from a terminal running `tuxpaint`)
SIGTERM (also, [Control] + [C] from a terminal running `tuxpaint`)
Tux Paint responds as if the "Quit" button were pressed, or the
desktop environment was told to close Tux Paint (e.g., by clicking
a window close button, or pressing [Alt] + [F4] on most systems).
Tux Paint responds as if the "Quit" button were pressed, or the desktop
environment was told to close Tux Paint (e.g., by clicking a window close
button, or pressing [Alt] + [F4] on most systems).
From the main interface, Tux Paint will prompt whether or not you
wish to quit, and (unless overridden by the auto-save option, e.g.
"--autosave") if you'd like to save the current drawing (if
unsaved), and if so, and it's a modified version of an existing
drawing (unless overridden by the options to save over old images,
or always save new images; e.g. "--saveover" and "--saveovernew",
respectively), whether or not to overwrite the existing drawing,
or save to a new file.
From the main interface, Tux Paint will prompt whether or not you wish to
quit, and (unless overridden by the auto-save option, e.g. "--autosave") if
you'd like to save the current drawing (if unsaved), and if so, and it's a
modified version of an existing drawing (unless overridden by the options
to save over old images, or always save new images; e.g. "--saveover" and
"--saveovernew", respectively), whether or not to overwrite the existing
drawing, or save to a new file.
Example: killall tuxpaint
Example: killall tuxpaint
💡 Note: From other parts of the interface, the signal is currently
interpreted as a request to go back (e.g., from the "New" dialog
back to the main interface), as if a "Back" button in Tux Paint
were clicked, or the [Esc] was key pressed.
💡 Note: From other parts of the interface, the signal is currently
interpreted as a request to go back (e.g., from the "New" dialog back to
the main interface), as if a "Back" button in Tux Paint were clicked, or
the [Esc] was key pressed.
SIGUSR1 & SIGUSR2
Tux Paint responds by setting its auto-save option (as if it had
been launched with "--autosave"), as well as either the option to
always save new images (as if launched with "--saveovernew") in
the case of receiving a SIGUSR1 signal, or to always save over the
existing image (as if launched with "--saveover") in the case of
receiving SIGUSR2. Then Tux Paint sends itself a SIGTERM signal,
in an attempt to quit. (See above.)
So, from the main interface, Tux Paint should quit almost
immediately, with no questions asked.
SIGUSR1 & SIGUSR2
Tux Paint responds by setting its auto-save option (as if it had been
launched with "--autosave"), as well as either the option to always save
new images (as if launched with "--saveovernew") in the case of receiving a
SIGUSR1 signal, or to always save over the existing image (as if launched
with "--saveover") in the case of receiving SIGUSR2. Then Tux Paint sends
itself a SIGTERM signal, in an attempt to quit. (See above.)
So, from the main interface, Tux Paint should quit almost immediately, with
no questions asked.
Example: killall -s SIGUSR1 tuxpaint
💡 Note: From other parts of the interface, unfortunately, Tux Paint will go
back one level in the interface. Therefore, at this time, it may be
necessary to send this signal to Tux Paint a few times, for it to quit
completely.
Example: killall -s SIGUSR1 tuxpaint
💡 Note: From other parts of the interface, unfortunately, Tux
Paint will go back one level in the interface. Therefore, at this
time, it may be necessary to send this signal to Tux Paint a few
times, for it to quit completely.

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Tux Paint
version 0.9.31
version 0.9.31
SVG Documentation
Copyright © 2007-2022 by various contributors; see AUTHORS.txt.
https://tuxpaint.org/
júní 4, 2022
júní 4, 2022
About SVGs
About SVGs
SVG (Scalable Vector Graphics) is an open standard used to describe
two-dimensional vector graphics. It is great for diagrams and shapes,
while PNGs are better for photographs. SVG files are a bit like
instructions on how to make an image. This means that they can be resized
without looking pixelated or blocky.
SVG (Scalable Vector Graphics) is an open standard used to describe
two-dimensional vector graphics. It is great for diagrams and shapes, while
PNGs are better for photographs. SVG files are a bit like instructions on how
to make an image. This means that they can be resized without looking pixelated
or blocky.
For more information, visit: https://www.w3.org/Graphics/SVG/
For more information, visit: https://www.w3.org/Graphics/SVG/
How to make SVGs
How to make SVGs
An excellent tool with which to create SVG images for use in Tux Paint is
Inkscape, a high-quality Open Source interactive drawing program available
for Windows, macOS, and Linux. There are also other applications that can
produce SVGs, both free/open source, and commerical/proprietary.
An excellent tool with which to create SVG images for use in Tux Paint is
Inkscape, a high-quality Open Source interactive drawing program available for
Windows, macOS, and Linux. There are also other applications that can produce
SVGs, both free/open source, and commerical/proprietary.
Open Source
* Inkscape — http://www.inkscape.org/
* Karbon — https://calligra.org/karbon/
Open Source
+ Inkscape — http://www.inkscape.org/
+ Karbon — https://calligra.org/karbon/
Proprietary
+ CorelDRAW (Corel) — https://www.coreldraw.com/en/
+ Illustrator (Adobe) — http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html
+ Boxy SVG — https://boxy-svg.com/
+ Sketch (Sketch B.V.) — https://boxy-svg.com/
Proprietary
* CorelDRAW (Corel) — https://www.coreldraw.com/en/
* Illustrator (Adobe) —
http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html
* Boxy SVG — https://boxy-svg.com/
* Sketch (Sketch B.V.) — https://boxy-svg.com/

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Tux Paint 0.9.29 Quickstart Guide
Tux Paint 0.9.29 Quickstart Guide
Tools (Drawing)
🖌Paint
🖌Paint
* Choose a brush on the right.
* Some brushes are animated 🎞, some are directional ✲, some are both.
* Change brush spacing with the bars 📶 at the bottom right.
* Choose a color (see "Colors").
* Click/tap and drag in the canvas to paint.
* Choose a brush on the right.
* Some brushes are animated 🎞, some are directional ✲, some are both.
* Change brush spacing with the bars 📶 at the bottom right.
* Choose a color (see "Colors").
* Click/tap and drag in the canvas to paint.
⌧Stamps
⌧Stamps
* Change categories with the arrow buttons ⇦⇨ near the bottom right.
* Choose a stamp on the right.
* Some stamps may be mirrored 🪞, and/or flipped ↕, using controls near
the bottom right.
* Some stamps allow you to choose their color (see "Colors").
* Change stamp size with the bars 📶 at the bottom right.
* Rotation ⟳ may be enabled, if desired.
* Click/tap in the canvas to place a stamp.
* If rotation is enabled, drag to rotate it, and click/tap again to
add it to the drawing.
* Some stamps play sound effects; press the speaker 🕪 button to hear it
again.
* Some stamps play descriptive sounds; press the headphones 🎧 button to
hear it again.
* Change categories with the arrow buttons ⇦⇨ near the bottom right.
* Choose a stamp on the right.
* Some stamps may be mirrored 🪞, and/or flipped ↕, using controls near the
bottom right.
* Some stamps allow you to choose their color (see "Colors").
* Change stamp size with the bars 📶 at the bottom right.
* Rotation ⟳ may be enabled, if desired.
* Click/tap in the canvas to place a stamp.
+ If rotation is enabled, drag to rotate it, and click/tap again to add
it to the drawing.
* Some stamps play sound effects; press the speaker 🕪 button to hear it
again.
* Some stamps play descriptive sounds; press the headphones 🎧 button to hear
it again.
⚟Lines
⚟Lines
* (See Paint)
* Click/tap and drag to draw a line.
* (See Paint)
* Click/tap and drag to draw a line.
⭓Shapes
⭓Shapes
* Choose a shape on the right.
* Select whether you want to extend the shape from the center ⧈, or a
corner ◰, using controls at the bottom right.
* Click/tap to position, and drag to set the size of the shape.
* Drag to rotate it, and click/tap again to add it to the drawing.
* Choose a shape on the right.
* Select whether you want to extend the shape from the center ⧈, or a corner
◰, using controls at the bottom right.
* Click/tap to position, and drag to set the size of the shape.
* Drag to rotate it, and click/tap again to add it to the drawing.
🄰Text
🄰Text
* Choose a font on the right.
* Select whether you want the text bold 𝗔 and/or italic 𝘈, using
controls near the bottom right.
* Change text size using the up 🡁 and down 🡃 arrow buttons at the bottom
right.
* Choose a color (see "Colors").
* Click/tap the canvas to position an insertion cursor.
* Enter text via your keyboard or the on-screen keyboard.
* Click/tap the canvas again if you wish to reposition the text.
* Press [Enter]/[Return] or click/tap ⮨ to add the text to the drawing
and begin entering more text one line down.
* Or, press [Tab] or click/tap or ⟷ to add the text to the drawing and
continue entering more text immediately to the right.
* Using the on-screen keyboard:
* "Cmp" can be used to compose characters, e.g. Cmp ' a results in
á.
* "AltGr" can be used to quickly access more characters.
* Left/Right arrows switches keyboard layouts (e.g., "QWERTY" vs.
"ABC")
* Choose a font on the right.
* Select whether you want the text bold 𝗔 and/or italic 𝘈, using controls
near the bottom right.
* Change text size using the up 🡁 and down 🡃 arrow buttons at the bottom
right.
* Choose a color (see "Colors").
* Click/tap the canvas to position an insertion cursor.
* Enter text via your keyboard or the on-screen keyboard.
* Click/tap the canvas again if you wish to reposition the text.
* Press [Enter]/[Return] or click/tap ⮨ to add the text to the drawing and
begin entering more text one line down.
* Or, press [Tab] or click/tap or ⟷ to add the text to the drawing and
continue entering more text immediately to the right.
* Using the on-screen keyboard:
+ "Cmp" can be used to compose characters, e.g. Cmp ' a results in á.
+ "AltGr" can be used to quickly access more characters.
+ Left/Right arrows switches keyboard layouts (e.g., "QWERTY" vs. "ABC")
🅰Label
🅰Label
* (See Text)
* Labels float 'above' the drawing; you cannot paint or stamp over them,
apply Magic effects, etc.
* Labels may be edited, repositioned, and styled after they've been
added to the drawing.
* Click/tap the ☝ button near the lower right to choose a label.
Click/tap the label you wish to modify, then click/tap somewhere else
in the canvas to reposition, or change the font/style, change color,
and/or type to edit the text.
* Or, use the 🖑 button near the lower right to "flatten" a label,
applying it to the canvas; it may no longer be edited with the Label
tool.
* (See Text)
* Labels float 'above' the drawing; you cannot paint or stamp over them,
apply Magic effects, etc.
* Labels may be edited, repositioned, and styled after they've been added to
the drawing.
* Click/tap the ☝ button near the lower right to choose a label. Click/tap
the label you wish to modify, then click/tap somewhere else in the canvas
to reposition, or change the font/style, change color, and/or type to edit
the text.
* Or, use the 🖑 button near the lower right to "flatten" a label, applying it
to the canvas; it may no longer be edited with the Label tool.
🪣Fill
🪣Fill
* Choose a fill mode on the right.
* Choose a color (see "Colors").
* Click/tap (and drag, with Brush and Linear modes) to fill an area of
the picture with a color.
* Solid - Flood-fills an area with a solid color
* Brush - Paints with a solid color, without drawing outside the
chosen area
* Linear - Fills the area with a linear gradient (drag to choose
angle and gradient)
* Radial - Fills the area with a radial gradient, centered where
you clicked/tapped
* Shaped - Fills the area with a gradient that follows the contours
of the area being filled
* Choose a fill mode on the right.
* Choose a color (see "Colors").
* Click/tap (and drag, with Brush and Linear modes) to fill an area of the
picture with a color.
+ Solid - Flood-fills an area with a solid color
+ Brush - Paints with a solid color, without drawing outside the chosen
area
+ Linear - Fills the area with a linear gradient (drag to choose angle
and gradient)
+ Radial - Fills the area with a radial gradient, centered where you
clicked/tapped
+ Shaped - Fills the area with a gradient that follows the contours of
the area being filled
🪄Magic
🪄Magic
* Choose a magic tool on the right.
* Change categories with the arrow buttons ⇦⇨ near the bottom right.
* Some magic tools draw or apply effects via click/tap and drag 〰🪄, some
affect the entire drawing 🖻🪄, and some offer both options; use the
controls at the bottom right.
* Some magic tools offer various sizes; change it with the bars 📶 at the
bottom right.
* Some magic tools allow you to choose their color.
* Choose a magic tool on the right.
* Change categories with the arrow buttons ⇦⇨ near the bottom right.
* Some magic tools draw or apply effects via click/tap and drag 〰🪄, some
affect the entire drawing 🖻🪄, and some offer both options; use the controls
at the bottom right.
* Some magic tools offer various sizes; change it with the bars 📶 at the
bottom right.
* Some magic tools allow you to choose their color.
🖓Undo
🖓Undo
* Use to undo the most recent changes (multiple undo available).
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[Z]
* Use to undo the most recent changes (multiple undo available).
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[Z]
🖒Redo
🖒Redo
* Use to redo the most recent undone change (multiple redo available).
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[R]
* Use to redo the most recent undone change (multiple redo available).
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[R]
◪Eraser
◪Eraser
* Choose the size and shape of the eraser on the right.
* Click/tap and drag to erase parts of the picture (solid color, or
starter or template image).
* Shortcut: [X] and click/tap in the drawing (not always available)
* Choose the size and shape of the eraser on the right.
* Click/tap and drag to erase parts of the picture (solid color, or starter
or template image).
* Shortcut: [X] and click/tap in the drawing (not always available)
Tools (Controls)
🗏New
🗏New
* Choose a solid color, starter, or template image to start with.
* Starters allow drawing "under" a picture (e.g., a coloring book
outline), sometimes with a background layer, too.
* Templates are pictures to start with (background only).
* Eraser tool ◪ reveals the solid color, or starter/template
background.
* Click/tap "🕮⮫Open" to begin a new drawing.
* Click/tap "⤺Back" to abort and return to your current drawing.
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[N]
* Choose a solid color, starter, or template image to start with.
+ Starters allow drawing "under" a picture (e.g., a coloring book
outline), sometimes with a background layer, too.
+ Templates are pictures to start with (background only).
+ Eraser tool ◪ reveals the solid color, or starter/template background.
* Click/tap "🕮⮫Open" to begin a new drawing.
* Click/tap "⤺Back" to abort and return to your current drawing.
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[N]
🕮⮫Open
🕮⮫Open
* Choose a previously-saved drawing to open (or export or erase).
* Click/tap "🕮⮫Open" to open the saved drawing and continue editing it.
* Click/tap "🗏⮫Export" to save the drawing to your system's "Pictures"
folder.
* Click/tap "🗑Erase" to move the drawing to your system's Trash/Recycle
Bin.
* Click/tap "⤺Back" to abort and return to your current drawing.
* Click/tap "📽Slides" to switch to slideshow mode:
* Click/tap two or more of your previously-saved drawings, in the
order you want them shown. Numbers will appear on them.
* Choose the playback speed using the bars 📶 near the lower left.
* Click/tap "⯈Play" to watch the slideshow/animation.
* Or, click/tap "🎞GIF Export" to save an animated GIF of the
animation to your system's "Pictures" folder.
* Click/tap "⤺Back" to return to the Open dialog.
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[O]
* Choose a previously-saved drawing to open (or export or erase).
* Click/tap "🕮⮫Open" to open the saved drawing and continue editing it.
* Click/tap "🗏⮫Export" to save the drawing to your system's "Pictures"
folder.
* Click/tap "🗑Erase" to move the drawing to your system's Trash/Recycle Bin.
* Click/tap "⤺Back" to abort and return to your current drawing.
* Click/tap "📽Slides" to switch to slideshow mode:
+ Click/tap two or more of your previously-saved drawings, in the order
you want them shown. Numbers will appear on them.
+ Choose the playback speed using the bars 📶 near the lower left.
+ Click/tap "⯈Play" to watch the slideshow/animation.
+ Or, click/tap "🎞GIF Export" to save an animated GIF of the animation to
your system's "Pictures" folder.
+ Click/tap "⤺Back" to return to the Open dialog.
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[O]
🕮⮪Save
🕮⮪Save
* Click/tap to save your drawing.
* If you've saved previously, you'll be prompted whether to overwrite
the previously-saved drawing (a la "File→Save") or create a new saved
drawing (a la "File→Save As...")
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[S]
* Click/tap to save your drawing.
* If you've saved previously, you'll be prompted whether to overwrite the
previously-saved drawing (a la "File→Save") or create a new saved drawing
(a la "File→Save As...")
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[S]
🖶Print
🖶Print
* Click/tap to print your drawing.
* Hold [Alt] or [Option] while clicking/tapping to bring up printer
dialog, if available.
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[P]
* Click/tap to print your drawing.
* Hold [Alt] or [Option] while clicking/tapping to bring up printer dialog,
if available.
* Shortcut: [Ctrl]+[P]
🗙Quit
🗙Quit
* Click/tap to quit Tux Paint.
* Shortcut: [Esc]
* Click/tap to quit Tux Paint.
* Shortcut: [Esc]
Colors
* Click/tap to choose a color to use with the Paint, Lines, and Shapes
tools, and Stamps and Magic tools that support colors.
* Use the pipette / color picker 💉 button to choose a color from a pixel
in your current drawing.
* Shortcut: When colors are available, press [Ctrl] and click/tap
in your drawing, to quickly pick a color from your drawing.
* Click/tap the rainbow 🌈 button to choose a arbitrary color.
* Click/tap in the rainbow square to pick a color (hue and
saturation).
* Click/tap in the grey gradient bar to adjust brightness (value).
* Click/tap the green checkbox ✓ to accept.
* Click/tap "⤺Back" to abort and dismiss the palette.
* You may grab the currently-chosen built-in color (if any), the
color in the pipette / color picker, or the color in the color
mixer, by clicking one of the colored arrow ⇫ buttons.
* Click/tap the paint palette 🎨 button to create a color by mixing
primary colors: red, yellow, and blue, and white (tint), grey (tone),
and black (shade).
* Click/tap the green checkbox ✓ to accept.
* Color mixing offers its own 🖓Undo and 🖒Redo options.
* Click/tap "🗑Clear" to start over with no mixed colors.
* Click/tap "⤺Back" to abort and dismiss the color mixer.
* Click/tap to choose a color to use with the Paint, Lines, and Shapes tools,
and Stamps and Magic tools that support colors.
* Use the pipette / color picker 💉 button to choose a color from a pixel in
your current drawing.
+ Shortcut: When colors are available, press [Ctrl] and click/tap in your
drawing, to quickly pick a color from your drawing.
* Click/tap the rainbow 🌈 button to choose a arbitrary color.
+ Click/tap in the rainbow square to pick a color (hue and saturation).
+ Click/tap in the grey gradient bar to adjust brightness (value).
+ Click/tap the green checkbox ✓ to accept.
+ Click/tap "⤺Back" to abort and dismiss the palette.
+ You may grab the currently-chosen built-in color (if any), the color in
the pipette / color picker, or the color in the color mixer, by
clicking one of the colored arrow ⇫ buttons.
* Click/tap the paint palette 🎨 button to create a color by mixing primary
colors: red, yellow, and blue, and white (tint), grey (tone), and black
(shade).
+ Click/tap the green checkbox ✓ to accept.
+ Color mixing offers its own 🖓Undo and 🖒Redo options.
+ Click/tap "🗑Clear" to start over with no mixed colors.
+ Click/tap "⤺Back" to abort and dismiss the color mixer.
Shortcuts while drawing:
* [Ctrl]+Click/tap - Quick pipette / color picker 💉 access
* [X]+Click/tap - Quick eraser ◪ access
* [Ctrl]+[Z] - 🖓Undo
* [Ctrl]+[R] - 🖒Redo
* [Ctrl]+[N] - 🗏New
* [Ctrl]+[O] - 🕮⮫Open
* [Ctrl]+[S] - 🕮⮪Save
* [Ctrl]+[P] - 🖶Print
* [Alt]+[S] - Toggle sound effects on/off
* [Esc] - ⤺Back or 🗙Quit
* [Ctrl]+Click/tap - Quick pipette / color picker 💉 access
* [X]+Click/tap - Quick eraser ◪ access
* [Ctrl]+[Z] - 🖓Undo
* [Ctrl]+[R] - 🖒Redo
* [Ctrl]+[N] - 🗏New
* [Ctrl]+[O] - 🕮⮫Open
* [Ctrl]+[S] - 🕮⮪Save
* [Ctrl]+[P] - 🖶Print
* [Alt]+[S] - Toggle sound effects on/off
* [Esc] - ⤺Back or 🗙Quit
Last updated: maí 9, 2023
Last updated: maí 9, 2023